Camp Muir (10,080') - Mt. Rainier

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Mt. Rainier, WA - March 6, 2010 - After weeks of rain and gray sky, we finally had a gorgeous sunny day over the weekend, even warm like early summer.  The forecast was Seattle would hit mid-60's, still early March.  This was my first ascent to Camp Muir and trekking up above 10,000' in snowshoes all the way.  9 miles RT with 4,600' elevation gain and all snow covered route.....I knew the hike was going to challenge me physically and mentally.  Most hikers usually trek to Camp Muir during summer, but winter and spring also offer a fancy opportunity for skiers and snowshoers to explore Mt. Rainier's winter wonderland.

Camp Muir, named for the naturalist John Muir, is a base camp for climbers on Mt. Rainier in Mount Rainier National Park.  There is a large public shelter built in 1921, situated at 10,080' between the Muir Snowfield and the Cowlitz Glacier.  Camp Muir is between the Nisqually and Paradise Glaciers, and is the most-used base camp for those climbers who attempt to summit Mt. Rainier (14,410').

There is no doubt Camp Muir is on many hikers wish list, just like Yosemite's Half Dome.  But the hike should not be taken lightly.  It's more strenuous than it looks and the weather can change unexpectedly.....Mt. Rainier makes its own weather.  Sudden dense fog "whiteout" is not unusual, which sometimes results in "missing hikers".  It is said that the hike to Camp Muir is "only" recommended for strong, experienced hikers.  Also, hiking up to 10,000' may become an issue for some people causing altitude sickness.   The route to Camp Muir - Muir Snowfield - is elected as one of America's 10 most dangerous hikes.  But, don't be discourage.  You can experience one of the most amazing hikes and stunning vistas with Camp Muir hike if you have strong hiking experiences, the right outfit, equipment, route-finding (compass bearings), survival skills and weather/avalanche forecast.  Remember, the rules of 3. You can only go 3 hours without heat, 3 days without water and 3 weeks without food.  As always, be prepared for the unexpected and HAVE A GREAT HIKE!

Route Description:
9 miles RT
4,680' elevation gain
6 - 8 hrs RT (add extra time if snowshoeing)

How to get there:  
Take I-5 to SR 512 (exit 127), then East on SR 512 to SR 7.
South on SR 7 to SR 706 in Elbe. Continue East on SR 706 through Ashford to the Nisqually Entrance of MT. Rainier National Park, continue to Longmire and then Paradise.  Park in the main parking lot or overflow area if it's full.  Trailhead is located to the north side of Henry M Jackson Visitor Center.  Make sure to check Road Status, Trail Conditions and Climbing Permits for backpacking and climbing.

Useful References:

Things to know before you climb
Camp Muir route and compass bearings 
Winter hike safety tips
Mt. Rainier live webcams
Mt. Rainier climbing
Mt. Rainier weather

West face of Mt. Rainier viewing from near Eatonville. The three summits (L to R) are Liberty Cap, Columbia Crest (true summit) and Point Success.

Looking at Panorama Point (6,800') en route from Paradise.   Hikers ascending to the same Direction and many are skiers.  The shoot is a long and steep grade to Panorama Point.

         

Zoomed in to view Mount St. Helens (8,365’) and Mt. Adams (12,281’).   Foreground is Tatoosh Range.

 

Mt. Rainier (14,411’) looms over Nisqually Glacier Vista.

 

Up and up to Panorama Point.  Great workout, no doubt.  Kick your butt!

 

View south from Panorama Point at 6,800'.  Paradise parking lot is visible down below before Tatoosh Range.  Mt Adams and Mount St. Helen juxtapose over the skyline.  Mt. Hood (11,249’) is vaguely visible in between.

 

The direct ascending route toward Muir snowfield begins after crossing Pebble Creek(7,000’).  The ridge along the skyline to the right is Little Africa and farther up around 9,000’ is Moon Rocks. 

 

The ridge on the right is Little Africa. 

Along Anvil Rock and Moon Rocks, lined-up hikers ascending to Camp Muir.

 

View south near Moon Rocks (9,000’) on Muir snowfield.  HWY 706 and Stevens Ridge are visible along Tatoosh Range.  Mt. Adams dominates the skyline and Old Snowy Mountain (Goat Rocks) is partially seen to the far left of the skyline.  At this elevation - 9,000’ - most hikers feel altitude.  The key to avoid altitude sickness is to stay hydrated, pace yourself, and stop/rest if you need.   If you feel sick, stop and rest.   If that doesn’t  help, the best is to turn around and descend.

View south of Muir Snowfield.  Vistas of “The Ring of Fire” - N. Cascades volcanic peaks are Mt. Adams (12,281’), Mt. Hood (11,249’) and Mount St. Helens (8,365’) juxtapose on horizon (left to right).  Tatoosh Range in the middle center. 

 

Camp Muir in sight!.....almost there!!      

Not there yet?  This last short stretch is a real butt kicker.  You can see Camp Muir right up there, but the body feels like it’s miles away.

Camp Muir – 10,080’.  Hikers rest on the helicopter pad.  Structures behind are the public shelter and outhouses.

View northeast of Camp Muir and Cowlitz Glacier. on which I am standing on in this shot.  From left to right are Cathedral Rocks, Cowlitz Glacier, IngrahamGlacier, Whitman Glacier, Fryingpan Glacier and down toward Summerland and Goat Island Mountain.  Eastern Cliff partially framed to the right.

View northwest of Camp Muir and Cowlitz Glacier.  Camp Muir is a base camp for the most commonly taken routes to summit Mt. Rainier (Columbia Crest).  There are at least a few commonly used climbing routes from here, depending on the route condition, climber’s skills and weather.  They are CowlitzCleaver/the Beehive, Gibraltar Rock, Cadaver Gap and Cathedral Gap (L to R in this picture. Also, Little Tahoma - 11,138' is framed to the far right). The most direct approach is to climb up toward Gibraltar Rock via Gib Chute.  Cowlitz Cleaver - the Beehive route can be rocky (summer) and a long way to scramble up the narrow ridge.  Cadaver Gap is another direct approach, but steeper.  Though Gib Chute and Cadaver Gap are the most direct ascent and a short cut, they are more prone to frequent avalanche and falling rocks, especially in summer these routes can be very hazardous.  Cathedral Gap is another route climbing via Disappointment Cleaver through Ingraham Glacier - Emmons Glacier, which is the most commonly used route by guide services andmost climbers from Camp Muir. 
 

Looking up toward Cowlitz Cleaver and the Beehive (the pinnacle rock standing at the top).

Muir Snowfield en route to Camp Muir

Camp Muir view south.  From left to right: Public shelter/outhouses, helicopter pad, Muir snowfield, mountaineering guides shelter and cooking hut.
Background: Tatoosh Range in middle; Mt. Adams, Mt. Hood and Mount St. Helen juxtapose over the skyline (left to right).

Camp Muir view northwest.  From left to right: Cowlitz Cleaver, the Beehive, Gibraltar Rock, Cadaver Gap, unnamed rock (?), Cathedral Gap, Cathedral Rocks, Little Tahoma, Cowlitz Glacier and Eastern Cliff.

For the freshest information for climbing, route conditions, and recent events on Mt. Rainier, go to Mount Rainier Climbing blog. 

Second Ascent - Camp Muir, July 23, 2011 - Many hikers go back to Camp Muir every year.  My second ascent to Camp Muir took place last summer.    It's certainly one of the most amazing hikes you can experience.  So, why not again?  I had a special reason in mind to hike up there this time.  I went back to Camp Muir because I wanted to prepare for Mt. Adams (12,281’) and Mt. Shasta (14,179').  I heard some climbers do this routine - Camp Muir hike because trekking up above 10,000' is a great training for climbing high peaks including Mt. Rainier (14,410') itself.  This is to show a difference between winter (read above) and summer hikes to Camp Muir.  The day hike to Camp Muir during summer can be quite different from winter's.   If it's a normal summer and the route and climbing conditions are stable, this hike is so popular and more ideal than winter because it's warmer and less snow en route; and you get to see a carpet of gorgeous wild flowers all over; and the extra bonus could be a pleasant surprise to see friendly wild animals that may pop out and greet you.   But, be aware that you have to fight with more crowd including tourists! from around the world on trail for sure....and vicious mosquitoes! (bug repellant can be VERY handy!).  Even though the summer hike to Camp Muir is preferred by many, you should keep it in mind that basic hiking knowledge, survival skills and other protocols such as 10 essentials, the route study, compass bearings, etc. are a must.  Be prepared for the unexpected for Mt. Rainier makes its own weather even in summer.

Here's some vital facts and stats on Mt. Rainier which may stimulate your interest ....do you know how many people attempt to summit the top of this heavily glaciated peak 14,410' annually?  In 2010, 10,643 people attempted to climb Mt. Rainier and 4,920 of them (less than half) actually reached the summit.  Go and  more at Frequently asked Questions.


*Click image to view large.

The way to Camp Muir.   Hikers are many en route and lined up one after another marching up and up to Camp Muir.  Muir Snowfield was still snow covered in mid-July because of the heavy snowfall received during the winter and spring of 2010 - 2011. 






Camp Muir is in sight.  This is a summer hike.   You can hike in shorts and T-shirt.  But, long pants and jacket should be carried in the pack.







Camp Muir - 10,080'.  It's usually snow covered even in the middle of summer. 



Camp Muir base camp.  Cowlitz Cleaver, the Beehive and Gibraltar Rock and Cathedral Rock are in background.







Climbers typically get up around 2am and aim to summit by early morning, and return to base camp by noon or so, which will give them enough time to pack up and descend to Paradise by mid - late afternoon if not planning to stay another night at Camp Muir.

Some climbers may start before midnight and aim to summit and capture sunrise.

Looking down toward Cowlitz Glacier from Camp Muir.  Notice crevasses are opening up.  This is one good reason that you shouldn't roam around at Camp Muir, not knowing what's out there or even right in front, side or back of you.

The summit route traverses Cowlitz Glacier from Camp Muir.   This is one of the most commonly used routes - ascend via Cathedral Gap (right side of Cathedral Rock), which leads to Disappointment Cleaver via Ingraham Glacier.

Closeup of Gib Rock.  Some crevasses are opening up along the Gib chute and also rock fall hazard in summer.

View south of Cathedral Rock.  Camp Muir is seen by the pinnacle rock and Mt. Adams dominates on horizon.   A couple of descending climbers en route just passed by and heading back to Camp Muir.

These two photos show Cathedral Rock and the route climbs up to Cathedral Gap (10,700').  After traversing Cowlitz Glacier, you climb loose scree and ash (see the red flag markers) through Cathedral Gap to reach Ingraham Glacier (hidden behind the ridge).   It's much steep than it looks! 

View east of Cowlitz Glacier.  Down at the glacier, Summerland and Goat Island Mountain are visible. 

 Gib Chute and opened up crevasse.   Notice many rocks are falling.

Gibraltar Rock and Cathedral Rock.  Between Gib Rock and Cathedral Rock is Gib Chute.  Gib Chute is another option for a climbing route taken by some climbers in winter and spring when the route is stable and secure.

Have a great climb!