Mount St. Helens, WA

Mount St. Helens, WA – 8,365’

3-18-2010

Worm Flows Route

Elevation Gain: 5,700’

Distance: 11 miles RT 

*Click to view large.

View of the snow capped active crater from the summit rim. Mt. Margaret, Spirit Lake and Mt. Rainier are also in frame.

It was a great snowshoeing adventure to summit Mount St. Helens since my last visit to Johnston Ridge Observatory during the significant volcanic activities between 2005 and 2006.  Mount St. Helens is an active stratovolcano and was named after the British diplomat Lord St. Helens who was a friend of explorer George Vancouver who made a survey of the area in the late 18th century. The volcano is well known for its eruption on May 18, 1980, which caused a massive destruction in the area and resulted in reducing the elevation of the mountain's summit from 9,677’ to 8,365’ creating a 1 mile wide crater.  I was intrigued with the idea of climbing Mount St. Helens in winter because of no daily climbing quotas and less crowded compared to the busy hiking season in spring and summer.  In addition, during April and October climbers traveling above 4,800’ must purchase climbing permits, but during November and March permits are free of charge. Another intriguing point of winter summit is to be able to see the snow covered active crater from the top. Mount St. Helens is a strenuous hike. It has more elevation gain (5,600’) than Mt. Rainier’s Camp Muir (4,600’) with similar RT distance (10 -11 miles) although Mount St. Helens (8,365’) is not as high as Camp Muir (10,000’). It took me about 5 hrs to summit in snowshoes, and 3 hrs to descend. Because the snow on the route was deep and heavy (sticky), I had to alternate snowshoes and crampons depending on the route’s snow condition. The weather was perfect - sunny and warm, no wind, which created unexpected enemy – sweating. I almost ran out of water!  Make sure to carry enough water and stay hydrated with this hike.  Views along this hike are stunning, particularly above timberline. Enjoy the Cascade mountain peaks (Ring of Fire) - Mt. Rainier, Mt. Adams, Mt. Hood, Mt. Jefferson and Mount St. Helen itself.  Mount St. Helens winter climb is quite challenging, but it is worth all the effort -  stunning vistas of the Cascades and the active volcano, and experience the beauty of “winter wonderland”. It is important to be aware of current avalanche and weather conditions in effect. Don’t get too close to the edge of the crater rim - STAY OFF the cornices. Start early and have an awesome climb!

Worm Flows Route: 

Worm Flows Climbing Route is the primary route during winter and early spring. Climbers should be prepared for winter climbing conditions. Climbers can access Worm Flows route via the Marble Mountain Sno- Park and the Swift Ski Trail # 244. Worm Flows Climbing Route is the most direct route to the summit of Mount St. Helens during the winter season. Ice axe, crampons, and avalanche awareness are recommended on this route. Skis with climbing skins or snow shoes with cleats are also highly recommended. From the Marble Mountain Sno-Park take the Swift Ski Trail #244 to reach timberline. Cross to the west side of Swift Creek, just above Chocolate Falls (elev. 3,700'). Follow ridges and open slopes to the crater rim. Wooden route marking posts guide climbers from timberline to approximately 4,800' elevation. Round trip is approximately 11 miles and RT time is approximately 7 to 10 hours. To reduce your exposure to avalanche potential, stay away from snow loaded slopes and gully bottoms. Stay off the cornices at the crater rim.

Climbing permits: 

A Climbing Permit is required for each person, for each day, year round traveling above 4800 ft elevation on the slopes of Mount St. Helens. November 1 thru March 31 permits are self issue and free of charge. Climbers can get  their permits at the Climbing Register located at the Lone Fir Resort in Cougar, WA or at Marble Mountain Sno-Park. April 1st thru October 31 permits are by advance reservations only through the Mount St. Helens Institute.   

  

How to get there (Worm Flows Climbing Route): 

It is a long way to get to the trailhead from Seattle (4 hrs each way). Start early. Take I-5 south and Exit 22 for WA-503 east, also known as Lewis River Road. Continue on WA-503 to Couger  where you need to stop at the Climbing Register at the Lone Fir Resort for a climbing permit  and register your climb.  Continue WA-503 and take a left onto Forest Road 81 toward the Ape Caves. Veer right on Forest Road 83 toward Marble Mountain Sno-Park. Trailhead is located in the parking lot at 2,700’.

                             Public shelter at Marble Mountain Sno-Park parking lot at 2,700'.

Other useful climbing info:

Avalanche/weather report: Northwest Weather and Avalanche Center. 

Guided climbs and permits: Mount St. Helens Institute

Current volcano and climbing conditions: Mount St. Helens National Volcanic Monument

Chocolate Falls

 

Trail sign at trailhead. Trail is well marked. Follow trail signs and markers (on trees) along timberline. As timberline thins out, reminiscences of monumental lava flows and rock formations become prominent in landscape. Chocolate Falls - a short water fall at Swift Creek. No water in winter.  View opens up after timberline and trail begins to gain more grade. Mt. Hood (11,249') is visible in south.

Swift Creek divides the banks….east bank and west bank. Climbers are to take the west bank (green line) along the creek to the lava flows and to the summit, not on the east bank (red line) for safety.

    

4,800’ marker says “Beyond this point visitors must display a climbing permit.” Without climber registration, hikers are not allowed to climb beyond this point. Above 5,000’ the snow was wet and slushy. I took off my snowshoes and put on crampons. View west of Worm Flows Route around 5,000'.

A small weather station serves as a route marker at 5,600', which marks about a half way distance from the trailhead. 2,800’ to climb to reach the summit from this point.  View east is Mt. Adams (12,281').

Panoramic view at 5,600' - Mt. Adams and Mt. Hood are seen in skyline.

Deceiving summit rim? Looking up toward the summit as you climb, you notice this ridge line which looks like the summit rim. But it is NOT the summit. You still have another 3,000' to climb from here.

View southwest from 6,500’, right above the deceiving ridge. The valley down below is Cougar and Yale Lake. I-5 and Columbia River are vaguely visible in horizon. 

Climbers glissade down near the summit rim.

View south of above 7,000’ en route to the summit looking down Worm Flows Climbing Route. Mt. Hood dominates the skyline.

View of Mount St. Helens summit rim - breathtaking! Witness the history of the 1980 eruption which took a huge chunk of the mountain top and left this gigantic crater and you realize the magnitude of the living force of mother nature. Steams come out of the active lave dome. Spirit Lake is at the foot of Mt. Margaret and Mt. Rainier (14,411') stands majestic in the north.

 

At the crater rim. Be careful not to stand too close to the edge of the rim.  The true summit of Mount St. Helens – 8,365’. STAY OFF the cornice!

Steaming lava dome.

   

                      

       

View of the crater of Mount St. Helens - steaming lava dome as foreground, and Spirit Lake and Mt. Margaret as background.

The last major volcanic activity on May 18, 1980 caused a catastrophic eruption which 57 people; 250 homes, 47 bridges, 15 miles of railways, and 185 miles of highway were destroyed. The eruption triggered a massive debris avalanche reducing the elevation of the mountain's summit from 9,677’ to 8,365’ and created a 1 mile wide horseshoe-shaped crater. The Johnston Ridge Observatory (JRO) is located at the end of the Spirit Lake Memorial Highway (HWY 504). The observatory brings visitors within five miles of the north side of the volcano and offers spectacular views of the still-steaming lava dome, crater, pumice plain and landslide deposit. JRO is located on Johnston Ridge which was named in honor of U.S. Geological Survey (USGS) volcanologist David A. Johnston who was on duty at the USGS, Coldwater II observation post during the May 18, 1980 eruption. David Johnston was one of 57 people who lost their lives in the eruption. He was the first to report the eruption, transmitting the famous message "Vancouver! Vancouver! This is it!" before being swept away by the lateral blast created by the collapse of the mountain's north flank. Ham radio operator Jerry Martin observed the lateral blast overtaking Johnston's camp. Though Johnston's remains have never been found, remnants of his USGS trailer were found by state highway workers in 1993.

 

Pay attention to follow the route you came from as you descend - Worm Flows Route, or end up going to a wrong direction!

 Trail markers to guide you.

         

Remember all climbers must sign-in and sign-out at the Climber's Register (Lone Fir Resort) before and after their climb. I signed out after 9pm.....good reason to start climbing early!                                                

 View north of the crater rim. Snow covered lava dome down below.

 

View of Worm Flows Trail above timberline.  Chocolate Falls on the left and Mount St. Helens rises ahead. 

 

View of 1 mile long crater rim at the summit.